Another season of "Top Chef" comes to a close and I couldn't be happier with the result. Stephanie wins!

Finally, a winner of a Bravo reality show that I can applaud. Not only is Stephanie deserving of the title but the fact that she's the first female winner in the show's four seasons is just icing on the cake, or in this case, braised pistachios on the lamb.

For a while there I thought Lisa might pull out a miracle win. That would have made at least one viewer very, very unhappy. And kudos to Richard for not taking the safe route. He over-shot and, in his words, "choked" but he went down with his integrity intact.

So what's a "Top Chef" lover to do now that the season is over? Why, "Project Runway" of course. During the "Chef" finale, the network announced the premiere date of the fifth season of the intoxicating fashion design series. Heidi, Michael, Nina and Tim return to the catwalk July 16 at a new time, 9 p.m., along with the latest crop of aspiring fashionistas. That means only four months will have passed since the season four finale, making the beyond-annoying Christian Soriano's reign as champ mercifully short.

Enjoy "Runway's" last strut on Bravo before it moves to Lifetime this fall. I know I will.

— Kathy Lyford

Another season, another bitter disappointment with the finale set up by “Top Chef.” That Lisa is still in contention chaps my hide. I’ve watched a lot of reality and she is easily the most vile, bitter, unpleasant contestant I can recall. And her skills seem marginal compared with the others. Can you say peanut butter mashed potatoes?

The fact that she stayed, over the lovely and talented Antonia, is hard to accept. I am appeased by the fact that her opponents, Stephanie and Richard, are the cream of this season’s crop.

As much as I love Bravo’s reality stalwarts, “Top Chef” and “Project Runway,” I am never satisfied with the contestants that eventually win or even the ones who move on to the finals. But at least some of the other “villains” (Hung, Marcel, Santino, Christian) had the talent to back up their bravado and/or personality flaws.

Granted, the finale is still to come, and Lisa just barely has a shot at the title, but anything can happen. Lisa just better not win.

(Guess which one is Lisa in the photo above.)

— Kathy Lyford

Bravo’s “Top Chef” is going into its finale with the final four chefs set. Frankly, we couldn’t muster up the energy to blog about the whole season but I think it’s time we weighed in.

Kathy: Phil, is Lisa the most unpleasant contestant ever on the show? Her folded arms, grumpy, sour face and inability to take criticism are so off-putting I’ve been rooting for her to get booted for weeks now.

Phil: Weeks? How about months? It seemed like there were so many opportunities for her to get the boot — why she stayed and Dale left is beyond me — and this past week was no different. OK, so Spike makes a bad decision and uses frozen scallops as the centerpiece of a dish, but she created a dish that sounded so unappetizing — peanut butter mashed potatoes — that no right-thinking steakhouse diner would order it. Antonia had the right idea: Go basic. Lisa, according to the judges, had flaws in her technique; Spike did everything he could to salvage the scallops. He could have possibly saved himself by using them as an accent rather than the key ingredient. 

Kathy: Peanut butter mashed potatoes. Ugh.

Kathy: So who’s your favorite? I’ve loved Stephanie from the start and Richard has grown on me but if I were to be served a meal from just one contestant, I’d choose Antonia. There’s something about her comfort food approach I find appealing.

Phil: Antonia has long been my favorite on a number of levels and it seems like a lot of tasks play to her strengths — cooking for kids, for example. If I had to choose a person who would be cooking me dinner every night when I got home, it would be Antonia. If I wanted a place to go every Saturday for a year for a weekly nice meal, it would be Stephanie. For those annual big occasions, I have a feeling that Richard has some things up his sleeve that would make those events really special. Lisa can handle take-out when you’re exhausted on a Thursday night.

— Kathy Lyford and Phil Gallo

Only three episodes in and the fourth edition of "Top Chef" has a mano a mano flavor that distinguishes itself from the predecessors. This is a lab experiment, the sort typically conducted with rats, in which one species recoils and the other claws to a role of dominance regardless of their place in the food chain.  Assimilation with these cooks — are you kidding?

Third episode opened on aggressive notes of male bragadacio that only ramped up as the segment progressed. Credit the astute editing and the less than scintillating tasks — a gourmet taco and a block party picnic — for making this one more about personality and less about food. (And "soggy" was the word of the day even if Padma did not repeat another judge saying it).

Spike, Andrew and Erik have taken on roles of  imperious aggression and we have yet to see the cooking behind it to give them a pass on their behavior. It's Type A instead of an A game, and it ultimately tripped up Erik who packed his knives after making a ghastly looking taco plate and miscalculated the effect of time on a corn dog.

Enhancing the positions certain males have assumed are the selected shots. It's one thing to show a competitor cheering "yay, us!," but here they're slamming beers and basketballs, flailing about as they compliment themselves and boasting before a task is started about the genius of strategy. It's the apes of "2001" in chef's jackets.

Women and the non-alpha males, meanwhile, are captured in passive lounging positions — the lesbian couple in bed, Richard seated on a folding chair in the street slightly bewildered; Manuel being silent; Stephanie being selfless. Perhaps it will get back to food next week when Daniel Boulud visits.
KATHY: Everyone from the contestants to the network folks who come up with the phone-in polls seems to be deeming this the season a woman finally wins this thing. Is it possible that they tapped just enough self-destructive male cretins to ensure that it will happen? Stephanie has won twice already so it looks as if we have a female front-runner.

PHIL: I  agree with Erik and Spike — tacos are street food. Interesting that the one guy who avoided the tortilla won. It could just as easily been an entry into a nouveau crepe competition.
KATHY: Tacos are street food but I think nearly anything can be made more elegant. I thought both the duck tacos and the ones with the chick peas were creative and upscale. It's interesting that the contestant who admits to routinely serving lobster corndogs gets bent out of shape about being asked to upgrade a taco. There is no excuse on any reality show to say "Screw him" about a visiting expert. I'm glad Erik is gone.

PHIL: In previous seasons, Tom Colicchio has been the gentle master. Now he's not only more of a task master, but he is also displaying more food knowledge. Paella is all about the crust, for example. He appears to be dropping his Tim Gunn tendencies to be simultaneously questioning and supportive.
KATHY: Cause and effect, Phil. Populate the show with abrasive macho creeps and the judges must also step up their aggression. Andrew's little "this is my house" tirade was particularly pathetic and childish.

PHIL: So, is lavender sexy?
KATHY: In a bath, yes. In lemonade, not so much.

PHIL: Did you notice Padma struggle to keep a gooey substance in her mouth?
KATHY: Now I'm embarrassed.

— Phil Gallo and Kathy Lyford

The beauty of “American Idol” (Yes, I know we’re recapping “Top Chef.” Just indulge me a second) is that by the time you get to the Top 12, you’re invested. You already have a few favorites. You’ve picked your winner. You know who to hate on. With the other competition reality shows, like “Top Chef,” “Project Runway” or “American’s Next Top Model,” you spend the first episode or two just trying to put faces to names and choosing a villain. That’s where we come in.

One thing about “Top Chef,” they really do step up their game in each season. They take the show and the contestants very seriously, so the challenges are based on the idea the those that compete have watched the show already, learned from past episodes, and need harder challenges in an effort to create new hurdles. This learning curve keeps the show fresh and fab.

Anywho, off to Chicago…

The first episode, we are bombarded with a whole bunch of names and personalities, all of whom explain how they completely different from past personalities and why they will win. But guess what? They are not special snowflakes.

The breakdown:

Andrew
Reminds us of: Kenneth Lee, obnoxious Irish guy with icky fingers, season 1.
Erin: Gets deep dish pie pan stolen. Is annoying on many, many levels.
Kathy: So many annoying traits, not the least of which is his foul-mouthed Hep Cat act. We both hate him already. And he didn’t know the ingredients of mayonnaise. I knew that when I was 10.

Antonia
Reminds us of: Candice from season 1
Erin: One of the four best. She bests Nimma with non-salty and edible shrimp scampi.
Kathy: She’s hot. So I’m guessing she’ll be the favorite for our fellow recapper, Phil (who returns next week).

Dale
Reminds us of: Hung, winner of season 3
Erin: He thinks he is the big winner of the Elimination round because he can cook steak. Surprise. He’s not.
Kathy: Cocky to an annoying degree.

Erik
Reminds us of: Frank, big burly tough guy with a heart of gold from season 2
Erin: Has scary tattoos and can’t cook a souffle without making it into nachos. This is not really a bad thing in my book. I think all good food can be made even better by turning it into nachos.
Kathy: Personality plus and self-deprecating. I hope he sticks around. But his pizza looked like something you can order at Dominos.

Jennifer
Reminds us of: Sandee from season 3
Erin: I enjoyed that she shamed Richard by showing up with the same haircut. Dates Zoi.
Kathy: I look forward to the challenges where they pick teams and Zoi and Jen don’t pick each other. Sparks could fly.

Lisa
Reminds us of: Becky, from the first season of the “Real World.” What? I never said I had to keep it in the "Top Chef" family.
Erin: Makes a mean eggs Benedict.
Kathy: Likes to “touch people with food.” Not sure how I feel about her.

Manuel
Reminds us of: Carlos from season 2, but not as fabulous
Erin: Um, he drinks beer. Honestly, he got no love from the camera.
Kathy: I thought he was a goner so I paid no attention.

Mark
Reminds us of: Suyai, nice Brit lady that was kicked off in the first episode of season 2
Erin: A Kiwi that uses Marmite molasses in his pizzas. In the bottom four for screwing up Duck L’Orange
Kathy: Closest thing we get to a cute guy this season. The accent helps. But I’m afraid inconsistency will cut short his visit to Chicago.

Nikki
Reminds us of: Marisa, the pastry chef from season 2
Erin: She made lasagna with handmade pasta, which endeared me to her, but her pizza looked like challah.
Kathy: Anyone who can turn out delicious lasagna in 90 minutes AND make her own pasta is a god in my mind. It takes me hours to make lasagna. Time management won't be her downfall.

Nimma
Reminds us of: Elia from season 2, if she lacked social skills and a sense of humor. So a pathetic version of Elia.
Erin: She uses salt to fill the void in her life. Got kicked off, thus bucking the “Top Chef” trend of filtering out all people with accents in the first episode.
Kathy: As soon as I heard she had no intention of interacting, I knew she’d be the first to go. The producers can’t keep people around who won’t clash with others.

Richard
Reminds us of: A cross between Stephen and Marcel. This is not a good sign, folks.
Erin: He stole a pie pan, uses blowtorches and smokers, makes a dessert pizza of peaches and lands in the top four. Quite a day for Richard.
Kathy: My early front-runner after landing in the top echelon in both challenges. I look forward to more “molecular gastronomy.”

Ryan
Reminds us of: Dale from season 3. But I don't want to make him my BFF like I did with Dale.
Erin: Has no idea how to made chicken piccata, which seems odd to me. I guess he's never been of the Olive Garden.
Kathy: Been working in restaurants since age 11. Living proof that working in a restaurant does not make you a chef.

Spike
Reminds us of: Not enough screen time to remind me of anything yet.
Erin: Has a hat. Has a few issues with Zoi and Jennifer being chosen to compete together.
Kathy: That’s a stupid name for an adult human.

Stephanie
Reminds us of: Leia, season 3.
Erin: Lost the Quick Fire with gamey prosciutto, but won the Elimination Round with all sorts of ducky goodness. Has the shakes.
Kathy: If nerves don’t get the better of her, she could be a contender. Her duck dish looked fab.

Valerie
Reminds us of: A meat-and-potatoes version of Casey
Erin: Also doesn't understand the basics behind chicken piccata.
Kathy: I have no recollection of her at all.

Zoi
Reminds us of: Elizabeth Berkley. She does. Just look at her.
Erin: Dates Jennifer.
Kathy: See Jennifer comments.

Deep dish pizzas I would try
Erin: The peach one looked mighty interesting. I think it would go well with brandy.
Kathy: Richard’s peach with white tea reduction; Ryan’s escarole, ricotta and butternut squash; and Jen’s grapes, bacon, fontina and rosemary. Maybe Mark’s molasses concoction.

Classic dishes that looked appetizing
Erin: I’m a huge fan of crab cakes. I think it was to do with my kosher background. Once I left my mother's house, I felt the need to make up for lost time and inhale shellfish whenever I see it. Plus, I enjoy a few special effects with my food, so that smoke screen that accompanied the cakes looked awesome. 
Kathy: Stephanie’s duck; Richard’s crab cake; Nikki’s lasagna; Lisa’s eggs bene.

Eliminated: Nimma goes home.

Padma, is she real?: Still no.

— Erin Maxwell and Kathy Lyford

P.S.
Dear producers, Can Anthony Bourdain be on every week?
I love Tony and his Ramones-listening, chain-smoking ways.

10:11 p.m.: The first block takes us from a live audience in a cheap-looking studio in Chicago to Aspen where the chef-testants - Dale, Casey and Hung (pictured left) - dueled for top honors.

Just when the show looks like its running out cash and gimmicks, it pulls out a smart one: Celebrity chefs will work as sous chefs with the finalists. Hung gets Rocco DiSpirito, Casey gets Michelle Bernstein and Dale gets Todd English. The chefs are given 35 minutes to devise menus - prawns and foie gras dominate; lamb, duck and pork belly are likely to be the deciding factors when the three chefs serves the judges each course simultaneously.

Biggest questions now, though: What will Dale forget? How exotic will Hung go in his Vietnamese prawn dish? And will Casey look more like Celine Dion or Jennifer Aniston when she gets into the kitchen?

10:26 p.m.: Solid, fast-paced camera work captures the energy of the kitchen and the dazzling knife skills of the mighty six. Hung and Dale complement their  celeb help, but the well-known cooks have some issues. Rocco says his "head is spinning" from the list of Hung's ingredients; Michelle would have never chosen pork belly as Casey did; and Todd English  is wondering if all of Dale's flavors will marry. Eventually the celebs have compliments for their new bosses.First mistake though is Dale not taking into account the effect the altitude will have on his gnocchi.

10:42 p.m.: A second curveball gets thrown: The chefs are about an hour away from finishing service and are told they have to come up with a fourth course. Help arrives in the form of former contestants Sara, CJ  and Howie. (One assumes Brian is sitting bitterly cooking another 40-ingredient stew). Casey - the look is classic Aniston by the way - starts to fall apart as the clocks starts bearing down on her. Hung,  who must whisper to himself "I am Da Man" each time he tastes his food, is supremely confident. Words like truffle juice, tamarind sauce, curry and baked peaches fly by in a hurry so its hard to figure out exactly what is being served by whom. Guess we'll find out soon. Padma is live (we believe) in Chicago still where she is reading cue cards at a fourth grade level. Killer  moment:  A subtitle that read "f**k." Time to make my second negroni.

11:03 p.m.: The chefs serve their four courses to Colicchio, Padma, the guest celebs, Gail Simmons, Ted Allen and, surprise, the third runner-up Brian. Judging by the bulk of the comments, Hung has taken a lead followed closely by Dale. Casey, who 60% of the viewers want to win despite the fact that they did not see what she made for the final, gets compliments on the one dish she didn't really do - a sirloin steak that Howie oversaw. Ouch. Hung's duck and hamachi courses earned raves and Dale's scallop and lamb won  kudos, but his lobster  dish got a major thumbs down. Without Anthony Bourdain at the table, there is no humor. And where are the wine pairings? Can't we get Stephen from season one to Aspen to run the "America's Top Sommelier" contest? Proof that it's all in the editing will come if Hung does not win. The only judge who does not seem to like his food or menu is Colicchio.

11:23 p.m.: Padma looks at the final three and with all seriousness says "one of you is Top Chef." Puh-leeze. (Earlier in the night she learned the word acid and was able to use it in a sentence). The Judges Table decides that two of Hung's courses (hamachi and duck) and two of Dale's courses (scallop and lamb) dominated. They sort of need a diving judge from the Olympics here, who could multiply difficulty factors into the slicing of fish vs. cooking lamb in duck fat. (Mmmmmmmm...duck fat).These were excellent looking meals and a real drama in present in the kitchen, the dining room and the chef's table. This show has seasons to go before it jumps the shark. Now bring on the winner.

11:32 p.m.: Hung wins. And deservedly so. "Top Chef" is looking for someone who is already at the top of their game. He knows flavor, he knows technique and he has a point of view. While the viewing audience would certainly rather pal around or date Casey or Dale, the choice almost seemed anti-climatic.  Marcel from season two was in the audience and you have to wonder if his eyes narrowed and he started  squealing "this should have been MINE!" Oh well. Interestingly, the judges all asked the chefs if they had cooked any of their four courses before, if they had shown up knowing what they would be cooking and all of them answered no. Last year, perhaps they were tricked a bit when the winner leaned on the staples found in the tasting menus of his place of employment. That meant the less-liked Marcel was handed second place even though his menu would probably be more likely to earn a Michelin star or two. Time to get back in the kitchen - and start working on that scallop with grapes recipe.

- Phil Gallo   

As the last of the summer series dies like the flame on crepes suzette, Season Pass will be there to bask  in the stunted  speech of Padma, the raised eyebrows of Tom Colicchio, the "who me?" reactions of chef Casey,  the "yes, ME" reactions  of Hung and  the "me-ow" of  Mohawked Dale. After a brutal full season, complete with bye weeks, Variety's weekly critique of America's favorite cooking shows comes to the end with us pulling up to the critical equivalent of the drive-thru window: Live blogging. No day-after, well-conceived analysis this week. No, instead of reaching for Glad Bags, making reservations  to Aspen, Colorado, on Continental Airlines or  whipping up coq au vin  in my GE appliances, I will supply the knee-jerk review of the cook-off in Chicago beginning at 7 p.m. PT/10 p.m. ET.
- Phil Gallo