Over at Ruhlman.com (blog of cookbook author/food writer Michael Ruhlman), Anthony Bourdain wrote a brilliant and acidic guest post about the James Beard Awards' brain-dead decision to hold the ceremony at the Lincoln Center -- where, you may have noticed, THERE ARE NO KITCHENS. What an honor to be a cook at this august event, where you'll get the opportunity to impress the culinary world's finest while hunched over a propane burner!
However, Bourdain saved the best for last, describing his interaction with a woman who I presume is current James Beard Foundation head Susan Ungaro, formerly editor of Family Circle:
When she inquired about the possibility of my involvement in some tandem Beard event with my friend Eric Ripert, I declined, saying it would be hypocritical of me -- given what I've said and written -- to take part. I explained that I would be an enthusiastic supporter and participant of all things Beard when and if I saw some kind of an effort to acknowledge the people who are actually doing the cooking in this country -- the between 30 and 70% of restaurant employees of Mexican and Latino origin -- of varying legal status. I was thinking a few bucks set aside for free para-legal advice. Maybe a widely accessible library. English lessons.
Her response? She looked at me with an expression of absolute sincerity and said, "Oh... we're very aware of the important contribution of our Lateeeno population." Then, proudly boasted about the good works Beard House has been doing on their behalf: "Why... just last week at a dinner at the House, 7 out of 10 of the waiters we hired were Lateeno!" She looked at me, guilessly, as if expecting a pat on the head.
(A shout-out to Gawker, which brought the post -- albeit a different, equally worthy portion -- to my attention.)
This is vastly unfair to James and his Beard.
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