The tapas craze peaked about two years ago, about the same time restaurants began trotting out "small plates." That phrase now has the same hoary patina as "restaurant-lounge," which is probably why we've come full circle with the tradition-minded Tinto. Chef Justo Vincent says he worked with Ferran Adria of El Bulli, not that you'll be seeing any alginates on this menu; these are simple plates of shrimp sauteed with garlic, cheese boards with quince paste, sauteed mushrooms and small tenderloins of beef on a bed of caramelized peppers. There's a nice Spanish wine list; the brick-arched room looks like it might have been exported from a Barcelona side street. That said, the waitstaff's Zorro-ish uniforms are a little corny and the small menu suggests that the kitchen's challenge will be continuing to entertain Americans' ADD-addled palates.
Tinto, 7511 Santa Monica Blvd. (323) 512-5095
NOISE-O-METER: a civilized 68-74 dBs
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