Bastide owner Joe Pytka has a reputation as a maverick, which is a nice way of saying genius/lunatic. However, his (re)opening concept for Bastide definitely falls on the genius side of the fence: Charge your first customers nothing.
The new-restaurant tradition is to hold friends-and-family dinners: Pals get free food; shaky-legged restaurant gets soft landing pad. However, Pytka has a problem with the landing pad. It ensures that you'll spend your early days hearing, "Everything's great! Congrats!" Comforting, yes; helpful, maybe not.
Here, the public comes to Bastide as paying customers; only when it's time for the check are people told that their meals were on the house, with the restaurant's thanks for having served as its guinea pigs.* "Invited guests don't order the same way as the public," says restaurant consultant Jerry Prendergrast, who says opening night Wednesday "had its slow issues," but that they've already made adjustments.
As for what the public will (not) be paying, there's two prix fixe tasting menus each night (about $85 and $125); respective wine pairings are $75 and $150. Tip and valet are included.
Bastide, 8475 Melrose Place. (310) 651-5950
* Too late. The free-dinner policy runs through Saturday and they're already booked solid. And the longhair is Mr. Pytka.
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