Abode's painful review: A small difference of opinion

In June, Abode was home to the World's Smallest Dinner. In the October Vanity Fair, it was the subject of a Fanfair Love Letter. (Click for larger pic.) Yesterday, it was the recipient of S. Irene's Nasty Review.

In between, I met Abode chef Dominique Crenn and I revisited Abode. And while I largely agree with S. Irene's take, I don't think Crenn is a "fashion victim." If she's anything like the day I met her, she's a righteously pissed off chef.

"You killed me!" That's how she introduced herself to me at last month's Food & Wine cocktail party benefit, where she cooked alongside Sang Yoon and Michael Cimmarusti. "That was not my vegetable plate! I took your review into my kitchen and said, 'Who did this? This is not my food!' "

I don't know how her kitchen works. But Crenn's food at the party was delicious.

So here's my wholly unsolicited and utterly opinionated advice for Abode: Relax. You've got beautiful tableware; put it in service of food that reflects Abode's motto of "Artisanal, Sustainable and seasonal" cuisine. Back off on the foams, the frosts, the semi-savory ice cream. Even if/when they're perfectly executed, no one wants to eat them; not really. Outside of the Oscar party, Los Angeles is not Vanity Fair; Angelenos only want memories of dinner at El Bulli as souvenirs.

Comments

[Nick]

Mostly I'm just disappointed that Abode bills itself as organic and renewable, yet serves practically no vegetarian food.

[Artichokey]

To me it seems like the PR buzz words didn't quite match up with the reality of what the restaurant was, which did a huge disservice to the potential the restaurant has. It's a beautiful space, but not 100% sustainable, and that's not a claim you can make if it's not 100% true. And a lot of people love foams and savory ice creams, but that's not what I think of when I see the words "artisinal" and "seasonal" (even if they are). I have no doubt that the restaurant will be able to rebound from the unfavorable review, but I think that Abode needs to rethink and retool the way it promotes itself.

[ohiogirl]

She didn't address the fact that, the veggie plate DID go out. So as it was her kitchen, her restaurant, it WAS her food.

Makes me wonder, what is "her" vegetable plate and, what is she doing to make sure it is right in the future?

[dominique crenn]

i will tell you what i did .As the leader of my kitchen ,i took the responsability and created some new vegetarian dishes that, hopefully my cooks will not change around during my absence .Life is a about evolving and learn from your mistake .Actually the main vegetarian dishe is marrocan spiced portobello mushroom with fava beans and lima beans succotash,crispy red rice rissotto cake and heirloom tomato chutney .A vegetarian tasting menu is also available .Hope i answer your question .