Bacaro: How to be lost

Found Bacaro last night. Located in West Adams just northwest of downtown LA, it's not the sort of place you're likely to stumble on unless you're a USC student. Turn the wrong way on Union, as I did, and you'll find yourself muttering, "You have got to be kidding me."

But the GPS doesn't lie (although it occasionally chides: After punching in the address for the third time, it finally refused to give me further direction beyond, "Please check the map. You are very close to your destination."). Bacaro is on a funny little slice of Union, between 23rd and 24th streets. More importantly, it's worth seeking out. Bacaro is like the emo, low-budget little brother of Lou.

One wall is a blackboard that lists all the drink (red, white, sparkling, beer) and the food (bruschettas, almonds and olives, cheese, soft polenta with braised beef). The lists aren't long, which is just as well as the staff is small and might otherwise be overwhelmed. I had a "flight" of roses (I'd call two glasses more of a puddlejumper, but they were both delicious) and a glass of "Pezzalunga," (an Italian blend, five grapes), which had a bit of a tang on the front that wasn't my style. However, the owner also poured us a free sample of Cesanese di Olevano Romano, a delicious wine produced from the grape I only knew previously as the primary element in Savanna Samson' s Sogne Uno.

Wine from eccentric grapes, roses and soft polenta. I don’t care where I am; next time, I'll find it without a hitch.

Bacaro, 2308 S. Union Ave. (213) 748-7205