Peter Bart on RockSugar Pan Asian Kitchen: "Tastes like bad Mexican food"

RockSugar rotgut?

I craved Chinese food when I got home last night, which is a problem because no one delivers Chinese food to Highland Park. It's not a fact I like to discuss, mainly because I'm afraid of what it could do to our property values. But truth will out and there I sat, getting hungrier, because my logic decreases in direct proportion to my blood sugar. I wanted Chinese food and I wanted it at home, even if I had to sulk all night to get it.

And then, a stroke of genius: I could get my late-working husband to bring me Chinese food. I texted my request at 9:48 pm. Practically 10 o'clock! Said husband is swell, but this was a Monday night; where could he find Chinese food at that obscene-in-LA hour?

Answer: Full House. It's located in Chinatown, which I realize is the moon for some people. However, this moon is open until 3am weekdays, 4am weekends. And it's not rotgut Chinese; it's Jonathan Gold Chinese, although his review of red-cooked trotters refers to the Arcadia branch. But whatever. I still can't get Chinese delivered, but I do have access to walnut shrimp and shrimp-fried tofu, for all intents and purposes, at any hour.

And now, for the dark side of Chinese food in LA, we turn west, toward the global dining conglomerate known as Cheesecake Factory Inc. (NASDAQ: CAKE)

"I went to RockSugar last night," said my boss, Peter Bart.

"Oh. And?"

"It tasted like bad Mexican food," he said. "It was disgusting. And expensive. And packed! On a Monday!"

"Well, so is Cheesecake Factory," I said. "They have lines out the door every night."

"Yes, but cheesecake is cheap. This isn't. I don't know how they think they're going to get away with it. I think word will get out."

"Can I quote you?"

"Of course."

And there you have it. I love an employer who makes my work easier.

Full House Seafood, 936 N. Hill St., Los Angeles. (213) 617-8382 
RockSugar Pan Asian Kitchen,  10250 Santa Monica Blvd., Century City. (310) 552-9988

Comments

[Nick]

And there you have it. Peter Bart's amazing ability to tell us what we already know extends to the culinary world as well.

(Little snarky for a Tuesday, I know. Sorry.)

[Russell Walker]

Well I went to the red carpet opening of Rock Sugar and I thought I was going to die. Not going to lie I was, as I am in most of these events a (+1) or someones guest for those of you that aren't familiar with LA's underground scene of D listers... At any rate, D lister or not, as I was sipping on a Tiger beer (brewed in Singapore and not bad btw), I was excited to test out the offerings that were making there way around the bar. Traveling in what I would describe as "bamboo esque banana boat serving dishes" being carried by your typical bs Hollywood male server with a square chiseled face and broad chest and most likely wearing a banana hammock himself to complement the banana boat, the food finally made its way around the room to me. At first glance the plating looked decent but I was not fooled when the first of many types of appetizers made there way into my "bouche"... this thought instantly hit me I kid you not... Did these come from the frozen food section of Trader Joe's? It was that bad, each and every selection!! If you are asking yourself, who is this guy to judge? Well let me tell you, I know my food, but it wouldn't take someone like me with a relatively refined palate to notice what a farce this place would be. Corporate chains at the end of the day all suck. Maybe "CAKE" should have consulted a Pan Asian Chef before spending millions on a build out that at best passes as a cheap copy of Tao. I hope for the sake of shareholders that tourist keep the doors to that place open for at least a little bit... but God forbid.

[Stark Reynolds]

The worst dining experience in LA
Run from Rock Sugar
Expensive
Loud
BUT
truly terrible food
RIP
ASAP

[Mark]

I went to Rock Sugar about two weeks after opening. The restaurant was packed, lunchtime on a Friday in Century City. We ended up sitting at the "family" table, a big table in the middle of the bar for multiples of people. The service was horrible, food just starting showing up. They delivered food we never ordered, handed us food that was clearly other groups at the table. The food runner, kept saying it was ours, that we were sitting at barstool#??? so it must be ours. We start eating, other people looking at us knowing it was theirs. So then they have to reorder. It was a service nightmare. One particular dish which we did order we received the order 3 times. The food taste was quite muddled, leaving you wondering what it really was supposed to taste. I guess the positive side to the whole experience was we were the lucky ones at Barstool #??? at the "family" table that received all the food, while everyone else waited and waited to finally get fed. The big surprise was wondering what would actually show up on the bill. Thank goodness we opted not to order a third entree for the three of us to share, as we ended up with everyone elses food.

[Talia]

about the article....ITS NOT CHINESE FOOD. You went to the wrong restaurant if thats what you were in the mood for. Its pan asian. A combination of foods from Thailand, Singapore, Mayalasia, India, and Vietnam. Maybe they were tastes you were not used to. A shock to your palate. I know the unknown is scary, but if you were looking for Chinese food, you ate at the wrong restaurant. Clearly not what you were in the market for in the first place.

[steve McDowell]

Peter, did you actually get food from RockSugar? If you did, you would realize that they don't serve Chinese food. If you are going to make such strong statements that the food is "rotgut," educate yourself so that you don't look like such an idiot. You are just another LA "expert" with no foundation to your inflammatory comments. Get a grip and remember it is just food.

[steve McDowell]

Russell,

The chef at RockSugar is from Singapore and his name is Mohan Ismail. Do a google and you can see his qualifications. Maybe you should have consulted someone with a PALATE before you posted your comments. Tool.

[Cam keith]

we were so excited to try Rocksugar and left with the worst taste in our mouth - overpriced, small portions and the service is dreadful. They should get the chef from Twin Dragon or Yang Chow to teach them how to make fried rice and other dishes they are passing off as "asian." Then train the staff on how to serve - and then lower the price by $5 an entree.

[Christian]

I know I am a month late on this post but I do have to chime in. Rock Sugar tried to bring the oft overlooked cuisines of South East Asia to the American public. It was a risky venture and it is pretty obvious to all of the unfortunate people who have eaten there that they overstepped, badly. Mr. Mohan Ismail (notice I do not use the title Chef)was a bad fit from the start. The highest position that Mr. Ismail held prior to his Rock Sugar post, was as Sous Chef at Tabla in NYC. While Tabla is unique and interesting (All Danny Meyer restaurants are)being a Sous Chef there does not make you qualified to operate a mega million dollar new concept, especially when you consider that Mr. Ismail has approximately 3 total years of experiance in restaurants. David Overton (CEO Cheesecake Factory) had better get himself a ringer Chef, and he had better do it soon. The public has no use for his "Chef" at Rock Sugar and neither will his shareholders. I realize that this is a bit scathing and, not wanting to be overly negative I would like to say I love the over the top design. Dining out is about spending your money to entertain your self and the place is entertaining. It just needs a full menu overhaul, new managment (Front and Back of the house) and a stronger focus on what it can be as opposed to the flop that it is. I expect that the crowds will be gone by mid October once the real "A" list clientelle start talking. There is one good thing about less crowds in a restaurant like this, you can appreciate the design a lot better. But I do not think that was "CAKE"'s intention.

[just curious]

Christian,

I'm just wondering, where did you get all this personal info on Mohan Ismail? I know for a fact that he also worked at Spice Market, as well as the Executive Chef of Kalustyan's Cafe before joining RockSugar. Seems as though your comments are directed in a personal slant towards Mr. Ismail vs. the restaurant as a whole.
I went to RockSugar & found the menu to be very good for what it is & what it's meant to be...a mall restaurant for the masses.

[Food Man]

I ate at Rock Sugar for a second and final time last week. The food is flat out terrible. When the manager came to the table I told him that we were not happy at all with our food and that our drinks had taken about 15 minutes from the time we ordered them. He appologized for the delay in the drinks, and then proceeded to tell us that we did not understand the food. That Rock Sugar was not serving Chinese or Japanese food but south east Asian. As luck would have it both myself and a member of my party have traveled throughout Asia. Both of us have been to just about every Asian country. I am not talking 2 weeks in Phuket. I have spent 33 months in Asia, my dining companion has spent almost 6 years in Asia. Most of those years in south east Asia. Both of us know south east Asian food, this is not it. We have eaten fermented prawn paste in Laos, fish sauce all over Thailand and Vietnam. They know haw to work with these pungent ingredients Rock Sugar does not. It seems that the cooks at Rock Sugar take every available Asian ingredient throw them into a wok and unceremoniously dump them on a plate and exclaim voila, what crap! I really believe that the manager intended to insult us, either that or he was just so frustrated from just about every other table saying the same thing that he had enough. Either way, Rock Sugar and by association Cheesecake Factory will never get another cent of my money. Every single person in our party felt the same way. If I want casual dining Asian I will stick to PF Changs. It's salty and I can't eat there often but they have never insulted me.