JAY WESTON REALLY LIKES BREADBAR!!!!!! Unfamiliar with the restaurant criticism provided by Jay Weston's Restaurant Newsletter (12 12-page issues, $70; 24 for $136, no website)? It's our pleasure to introduce you with excerpts from his Breadbar review, inspired by Ludovic Lefebvre consulting on the menu.

Fast food unlike any other!

In a few minutes, out came substantial bowls of what may be one of the greatest dishes in the universe!

This was tablecloth execution in a casual setting!

The salad Nicoise is not made authentically with an imported canned tuna, but it is the best version of it I have eaten!

This one is an all-beef Hebrew National dog with mustard and cheese tucked into a baked brioche bun!