#5 Opus: YES - If you're in the neighborhood.

High point It's so much better than it has to be. There's dips of smoked tomatillo-coriander or yogurt with sumac and wild thyme, spaetzle with braised oxtail and a respectable scallop ceviche. Chef Josef Centeno (formerly of Meson G) used to make flatbreads for his staff, topping them with pulled pork or baja-style fish and cabbage; now they're on the menu. Ambition without pretension is a beautiful thing.

Low point Opus is in Koreatown. And while the room is handsome (leather-topped tables, oversized booths and chairs) you have to wonder: Can they fill the place? It used to be Atlas which, by the time it closed, was reduced to weekend programs of "Hollywood Men -- all-male review for the ladies."

Saving grace It's right next door to the Wiltern and you're in the bar as soon as you walk in the door.

Opus, 3760 Wilshire Blvd. (213) 738-1600