The Knife

Osteria Mozza's best seats don't require a reservation.

Osteria Mozza has become the French Laundry of Los Angeles, a restaurant where dialing the reservation line is a lot like calling Indie 103 for Coachella tickets. However, the long white marble bar contains 13 seats that are first-come, first-serve. And they're the only place you'll see chef-owner Nancy Silverton; she stations herself behind the bar all night, preparing her mozzarella for the masses.

Osteria Mozza, 641 N. Highland Ave. (323) 297-0100

Osteria Mozza opens phone lines; LA loses it

Redial, disconnect. Redial, disconnect. Redial, disconnect until you get carpal tunnel in your index finger and switch hands. That's awkward and makes you spill Coke Zero all over the keyboard and you have to call IT and you still don't have a reservation at Mario Batali and Nancy Silverton's Osteria Mozza, which opens tomorrow.

That's what you (or your assistant) have to look forward to, but hop to it, anyway. (323) 297-0100. They started taking reservations today and are already four weeks out. I meant to call this morning, but I got busy and, as of 5 pm, it's August 7th or nothing. But it's all mine.

BREAKING: Osteria Mozza Reservation Lines are OPEN! [Eater LA]