Tapped out on tapas? Not Tinto.

The tapas craze peaked about two years ago, about the same time restaurants began trotting out "small plates." That phrase now has the same hoary patina as "restaurant-lounge," which is probably why we've come full circle with the tradition-minded Tinto. Chef Justo Vincent says he worked with Ferran Adria of El Bulli, not that you'll be seeing any alginates on this menu; these are simple plates of shrimp sauteed with garlic, cheese boards with quince paste, sauteed mushrooms and small tenderloins of beef on a bed of caramelized peppers. There's a nice Spanish wine list; the brick-arched room looks like it might have been exported from a Barcelona side street. That said, the waitstaff's Zorro-ish uniforms are a little corny and the small menu suggests that the kitchen's challenge will be continuing to entertain Americans' ADD-addled palates.

Tinto, 7511 Santa Monica Blvd. (323) 512-5095

NOISE-O-METER: a civilized 68-74 dBs